What is Compost

Compost is organic material that can be used as a soil amendment or as a medium to grow plants. Mature compost is a stable material with a content called humus that is dark brown or black and has a soil-like, earthy smell. It is created by combining organic wastes such as yard trimmings, food wastes and manures in proper ratios into piles, rows, or containers. Bulking agents such as wood chips are added as necessary to accelerate the breakdown of organic materials which allows the finished material to fully stabilize and mature through a curing process.

Natural composting, or biological decomposition, began with the first plants on earth and has been going on ever since. As vegetation falls to the ground, it slowly decays, providing minerals and nutrients needed for plants, animals, and microorganisms. Mature compost, however, includes the production of high temperatures to destroy pathogens and weed seeds that natural decomposition does not destroy.

• composting for nutrition

What to Compost

What to compost is a topic that seems to confuse a lot people so I thought it might be helpful to provide a list of “what to compost” and then also of course “what not to compost“.

Before we get into those basic lists a definition of what compost is might be helpful.

“Compost is a mixture of decaying organic matter used to improve soil structure and provide nutrients.”

Here is a list of items that answers the question… what to compost.
Animal manure
Cardboard rolls
Clean paper
Coffee grounds and filters
Corn cobs
Cotton rags
Dryer and vacuum cleaner lint
Eggshells
Fireplace ashes
Flowers
Fruits and vegetables
Grass clippings
Hair and fur
Hay and straw
Houseplants
Leaves
Nut shells
Sawdust
Shredded newspaper
Straw
Tea bags
Thatch
Vines
Wood chips
Wool rags
Yard trimmings

And of course a list of what not to compost and the reasons why.

Black walnut tree leaves or twigs… Releases substances that might be harmful to plants

Coal or charcoal ash… Might contain substances harmful to plants

Dairy products (e.g., butter, milk, sour cream, yogurt) and eggs… Create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies

Diseased or insect-ridden plants… Diseases or insects might survive and be transferred back to other plants

Fats, grease, lard, or oils… Create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies

Meat or fish bones and scraps… Create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies

Pet wastes (e.g., dog or cat feces, soiled cat litter)… Might contain parasites, bacteria, germs, pathogens, and viruses harmful to humans

Yard trimmings treated with chemical pesticides… Might kill beneficial composting organisms

NOTE: Finished compost can be applied to lawns and gardens to help condition the soil and replenish nutrients. Compost, however, should not be used as potting soil for houseplants because of the presence of  weed and grass seeds.

Organic Gardening…Composting

Proper and consistent composting will provide a natural and valuable resource for any organic gardener.

Making a compost heap: Garden style, square up to 2m square by about 2m high, this size ensures that oxygen can reach the inside of the heap while still being big enough to retain the heat needed for efficient working.

There are four factors in making a successful compost heap…

1 Oxygen: make the compost no more than 2m wide so air can pass into the centre of the heap, also the heap should not be over compressed so to prevent the access of air to the centre.

2. Water: necessary for the bacteria to develop and to allow the heap to heat up. When high nitrogen is added to a heap the composting process can be so rapid that it uses up all the available water and stalls the composting process. In winter however the heap must be protected from too much water as this will push the oxygen out causing anaerobic conditions which will also stall the process. Water may have to be added to the heap in hot dry conditions.

3.Heat: this will be generated by the composting process but the design of the heap will help to retain it and kep the process going. The heap should be compacted so each layer is in contact with the next but so squashed as it removes all the air. Avoid water logging and drying out.

4. Carbon to nitrogen ratio: The nitrogen (leafy material) speeds up the process while Carbon (wood/straw lignified material) provides the material to turn in humus and slows the process. With too much N the compost will heat up quickly then stall. With too much C the compost will be cold and slow to start.

In the case of a stalled heap it can be restarted by turning the heap adding water, lignified (woody) material, leafy material as needed to get a proper balance.

Organic Gardening…Crop Rotation

Crop rotation is an extremely important aspect of any organic gardening plan. Using a rotation of crops means that the same crop is not grown on a plot of land for two years running. Crops are divided into groups of related plants or crops requiring the same conditions and are rotated around pre determined plots within the growing area, so providing the opportunity to apply manures, lime and pest control measures according to the crops requirements. For example by keeping brassicas and potatoes on separate plots allows lime to be applied to brassicas to discourage club root while avoiding lime on potatoes which may encourage scab.

The movement of crops around the growing area limits the spread of some soil borne diseases although this is less effective on smaller plots.

The rotation can be changed according to need. A traditional rotation would be 4 or 5 years say: Alliums followed by Brassica, followed by Roots followed by Legumes. If Green Manures are used extra years will be added to the rotation.

The rotation will depend on what quantities of each crop are to be grown and whether a green manure crop is to be grown or if fertility is to be added using FYM or compost.

Planting and Growing Potatoes

Vertically Update 2

It has been 2 1/2 weeks since our last update about our growing potatoes vertically project. Absolutely amazing the amount of growth that has taken place over that time… at least above ground

The big unkknown is still whether or not there are actual potatoes growing under all that foliage… time will tell but we are very much encouraged.

The next step is build up the outside ring so that we can add some additional soil and compost and hopefully force another layer of potatoes to grow. That is this afternoon’s project. Will let you know how it goes on our next update.

Check out Our original post to see where we started from

Check out Our first update post to see where we were 2 1/2 weeks ago.