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	<title>It&#039;s All About Nutrition! &#187; Organic Gardening</title>
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	<description>Presented by Jeanne Caccia-Silva MS, RD, LDN</description>
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		<title>Bitter Cucumbers&#8230; Causes and Recommendations</title>
		<link>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2010/07/bitter-cucumbers-causes-and-recommendations/</link>
		<comments>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2010/07/bitter-cucumbers-causes-and-recommendations/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Jul 2010 13:02:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeanne</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Backyard Vegetable Garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Growing Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bitter cucumbers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cucumber varieties]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<h1>Bitter cucumbers in your backyard garden this year?</h1>
<div class="zemanta-img" style="margin: 1em; display: block;">
<div><dl class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px;"><dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PicklingCucumbers.jpg"><img title="Bitter Cucumbers" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ac/PicklingCucumbers.jpg/300px-PicklingCucumbers.jpg" alt="Bitter Cucumbers" width="300" height="225" /></a></dt><dd class="wp-caption-dd zemanta-img-attribution" style="font-size: 0.8em;">Image via <a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PicklingCucumbers.jpg">Wikipedia</a></dd></dl></div>
</div>
From year to year home gardeners might experience <strong>bitter cucumbers</strong> which they have grown for fresh use or pickling. Bitter cucumbers are caused by the formation of two cucurbitacins (terpenoid compounds) that impart a bitter flavor to seedlings, roots, stems, leaves, and fruit. Two genes are involved in controlling bitter cucumbers; a dominant one produces extremely bitter fruit and a recessive one inhibits the formation of curcurbitacin in foliage and fruit. An enzyme, elaterase, will hydrolyze cucurbitacins to non-bitter compounds. Elaterase activity is believed to be controlled independent of the genes controlling bitterness, however.

Usually the <em>bitter cucumber</em> principal does not accumulate very heavily in the fruit. When it does, it accumulates unevenly among fruits and within individual fruit. The cucurbitacins that cause bitter cucumbers are likely to concentrate at the stem end and in and just under the skin of the fruit.
<h2>The bitter cucumbers phenomenon...</h2>
The occurance of bitter cucumbers appears to vary from year to year and from location to location. Such a phenomenon may occur because elaterase production is stimulated or depressed under certain environmental conditions. Cool temperatures can enhance bitterness, but fertilization practices, plant spacing, and irrigation frequency have exhibited little consistent effect on the number of <span style="text-decoration: underline;">bitter cucumbers</span> produced. Varieties vary widely in their tendency to be bitter.
<h3>Bitter cucumbers avoidance recommendations...</h3>
Because bitter cucumbers tend to occur more when the plants are under stress avoid growing cucumbers in cool or shaded locations and provide uniform moisture and ample nutrients to ensure a good yield of quality fruit. Watering during droughty periods to provide 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water in a single application will help keep bitterness out of subsequent fruits. Apply a mulch, such as straw, shredded bark or newspaper, to help cool the soil, conserve moisture and keep weeds under control.

Select the new hybrid varieties because bitter cucumbers has been much less of a problem in these. Many varietiess are listed as being bitter-free, including Carmen, County Fair, Diva, Green Knight, Sweet Slice, Sweet Success and Tasty Green.

If you end up having bitter cucumbers, you can usually eliminate the unpleasant tatse by peeling away the skin and outer flesh and removing the stem end. The direction of peeling has not been shown to have an effect on the taste of bitter cucumbers.
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h1>Bitter cucumbers in your backyard garden this year?</h1>
<div class="zemanta-img" style="margin: 1em; display: block;">
<div>
<dl class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px;">
<dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PicklingCucumbers.jpg"><img title="Bitter Cucumbers" src="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/300px-PicklingCucumbers.jpg" alt="Bitter Cucumbers" width="300" height="225" /></a></dt>
<dd class="wp-caption-dd zemanta-img-attribution" style="font-size: 0.8em;">Image via <a href="http://commons.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PicklingCucumbers.jpg">Wikipedia</a></dd>
</dl>
</div>
</div>
<p>From year to year home gardeners might experience <strong>bitter cucumbers</strong> which they have grown for fresh use or pickling. <i>Bitter cucumbers</i> are caused by the formation of two cucurbitacins (terpenoid compounds) that impart a bitter flavor to seedlings, roots, stems, leaves, and fruit. Two genes are involved in controlling bitter cucumbers; a dominant one produces extremely bitter fruit and a recessive one inhibits the formation of curcurbitacin in foliage and fruit. An enzyme, elaterase, will hydrolyze cucurbitacins to non-bitter compounds. Elaterase activity is believed to be controlled independent of the genes controlling bitterness, however.</p>
<p>Usually the <em>bitter cucumber</em> principal does not accumulate very heavily in the fruit. When it does, it accumulates unevenly among fruits and within individual fruit. The cucurbitacins that cause bitter cucumbers are likely to concentrate at the stem end and in and just under the skin of the fruit.</p>
<h2>The bitter cucumbers phenomenon&#8230;</h2>
<p>The occurance of bitter cucumbers appears to vary from year to year and from location to location. Such a phenomenon may occur because elaterase production is stimulated or depressed under certain environmental conditions. Cool temperatures can enhance bitterness, but fertilization practices, plant spacing, and irrigation frequency have exhibited little consistent effect on the number of <span style="text-decoration: underline;">bitter cucumbers</span> produced. Varieties vary widely in their tendency to be bitter.</p>
<h3>Bitter cucumbers avoidance recommendations&#8230;</h3>
<p>Because bitter cucumbers tend to occur more when the plants are under stress avoid growing cucumbers in cool or shaded locations and provide uniform moisture and ample nutrients to ensure a good yield of quality fruit. Watering during droughty periods to provide 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water in a single application will help keep bitterness out of subsequent fruits. Apply a mulch, such as straw, shredded bark or newspaper, to help cool the soil, conserve moisture and keep weeds under control.</p>
<p>Select the new hybrid varieties because bitter cucumbers has been much less of a problem in these. Many varietiess are listed as being bitter-free, including Carmen, County Fair, Diva, Green Knight, Sweet Slice, Sweet Success and Tasty Green.</p>
<p>If you end up having bitter cucumbers, you can usually eliminate the unpleasant tatse by peeling away the skin and outer flesh and removing the stem end. The direction of peeling has not been shown to have an effect on the taste of bitter cucumbers.</p>
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<div id="crp_related"><h3>Related Posts:</h3><ul><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/06/picking-harvesting-cucumbers/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Picking (harvesting) Cucumbers</a></li><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/02/exotic-vegetables%e2%80%a6-bitter-melon/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Exotic Vegetables… Bitter Melon</a></li><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/11/persian-cucumber-recipes/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Persian Cucumber Recipes</a></li><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/04/planting-and-growing-cucumbers-fact-sheet/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Planting and Growing Cucumbers Fact Sheet</a></li><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/04/cucumber-recipe/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Cucumber Recipe</a></li></ul></div>h4>Incoming search terms for this post:</h4><ul><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/search/causes+bitterness+in+cucumbers/" title="causes bitterness in cucumbers">causes bitterness in cucumbers</a</ul><!-- SEO SearchTerms Tagging 2 plugin took 1.331 ms -->]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Do Organic Foods Taste Better Than Other Foods?</title>
		<link>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/do-organic-foods-taste-better-than-other-foods/</link>
		<comments>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/do-organic-foods-taste-better-than-other-foods/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:39:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeanne</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Diet and Nutrition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health and Fitness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Videos]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Organic Food]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<H2>Do Organic Foods Taste Better <BR><BR>Than Other Foods?</H2>

Absolutely. When someone tastes an organic tomato next to a regular, commercially grown tomato, the first thing they say is, "Wow!" The difference is amazing. The organic tomato has a natural lusciousness, it's succulent, it's juicy, and it's sweeter. There's a sweeter taste to it.
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><H2>Do Organic Foods Taste Better <BR><BR>Than Other Foods?</H2></p>
<p>Absolutely. When someone tastes an organic tomato next to a regular, commercially grown tomato, the first thing they say is, &#8220;Wow!&#8221; The difference is amazing. The organic tomato has a natural lusciousness, it&#8217;s succulent, it&#8217;s juicy, and it&#8217;s sweeter. There&#8217;s a sweeter taste to it.<br />
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		<title>How are Organic Foods Good for the Environment?</title>
		<link>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/how-are-organic-foods-good-for-the-environment/</link>
		<comments>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/how-are-organic-foods-good-for-the-environment/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:41:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeanne</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[<H2>How are <A class=zem_slink title="Organic food" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_food" rel=wikipedia>Organic Foods</A> Good <BR><BR>for the Environment?</H2>

It's a system that replenishes the soil. It takes into account every aspect of growth of the animals that are raised on that property. Everything is utilized. The animals are utilized to fertilize the soil, the soil is replenished on an ongoing basis. The crops are rotated, the cattle are moved, or the animals are moved to different places in the <A class=zem_slink title=Ecosystem href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecosystem" rel=wikipedia>ecosystem</A> that's created.<BR><BR>
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><H2>How are <A class=zem_slink title="Organic food" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_food" rel=wikipedia>Organic Foods</A> Good<BR><BR>for the Environment?</H2></p>
<p>It&#8217;s a system that replenishes the soil. It takes into account every aspect of growth of the animals that are raised on that property. Everything is utilized. The animals are utilized to fertilize the soil, the soil is replenished on an ongoing basis. The crops are rotated, the cattle are moved, or the animals are moved to different places in the <A class=zem_slink title=Ecosystem href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecosystem" rel=wikipedia>ecosystem</A> that&#8217;s created.<BR><BR><br />
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		<item>
		<title>How do I Know if a Food is Organic?</title>
		<link>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/how-do-i-know-if-a-food-is-organic/</link>
		<comments>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/how-do-i-know-if-a-food-is-organic/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Jul 2009 21:21:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeanne</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Diet and Nutrition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health and Fitness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Videos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic certification]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[United States Department Of Agriculture]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<H2>How do I Know if a Food is Organic?</H2>

If a food is <A class=zem_slink title="Organic certification" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_certification" rel=wikipedia>certified organic</A>, it is labeled as certified organic. Otherwise you may not know. For example, a lot of farmers may grow food organically. You have to get to know them for example at some of the farmer's markets. You won't always know because they aren't certified organic. It cost a lot to be certified organic.<BR><BR>
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><H2>How do I Know if a Food is Organic?</H2></p>
<p>If a food is <A class=zem_slink title="Organic certification" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_certification" rel=wikipedia>certified organic</A>, it is labeled as certified organic. Otherwise you may not know. For example, a lot of farmers may grow food organically. You have to get to know them for example at some of the farmer&#8217;s markets. You won&#8217;t always know because they aren&#8217;t certified organic. It cost a lot to be certified organic.<BR><BR><br />
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		<item>
		<title>Are Organic Foods a Healthier Alternative?</title>
		<link>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/are-organic-foods-a-healthier-alternative/</link>
		<comments>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/are-organic-foods-a-healthier-alternative/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 12:15:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeanne</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Diet and Nutrition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health and Fitness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Videos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Genetic engineering]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Herbicide]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pesticide]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<H2>Are Organic Foods a Healthier Alternative?</H2>

Eating <A class=zem_slink title="Organic food" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_food" rel=wikipedia>organic foods</A> is considered a healthy choice because you're not dealing with <A class=zem_slink title=Pesticide href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pesticide" rel=wikipedia>pesticides</A>, <A class=zem_slink title=Herbicide href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herbicide" rel=wikipedia>herbicides</A>, <A class=zem_slink title="Genetic engineering" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genetic_engineering" rel=wikipedia>genetic modification</A> of the foods. It is pure food growing, in healthier soils. It's done in a way that where the crops are rotated, and this allows the soils to become replenished.<BR><BR>
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><H2>Are Organic Foods a Healthier Alternative?</H2></p>
<p>Eating <A class=zem_slink title="Organic food" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_food" rel=wikipedia>organic foods</A> is considered a healthy choice because you&#8217;re not dealing with <A class=zem_slink title=Pesticide href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pesticide" rel=wikipedia>pesticides</A>, <A class=zem_slink title=Herbicide href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herbicide" rel=wikipedia>herbicides</A>, <A class=zem_slink title="Genetic engineering" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genetic_engineering" rel=wikipedia>genetic modification</A> of the foods. It is pure food growing, in healthier soils. It&#8217;s done in a way that where the crops are rotated, and this allows the soils to become replenished.<BR><BR><br />
<OBJECT id=videojugplayer classid=clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000 width=400 height=336><PARAM NAME="_cx" VALUE="5080"><PARAM NAME="_cy" VALUE="5080"><PARAM NAME="FlashVars" VALUE=""><PARAM NAME="Movie" VALUE="http://www.videojug.com/player?type=interview&amp;id=225dea57-5786-02f9-c00a-ff0008c9669c&amp;items=e57077a1-ccb9-22b5-c0c9-ff0008c9669c"><PARAM NAME="Src" VALUE="http://www.videojug.com/player?type=interview&amp;id=225dea57-5786-02f9-c00a-ff0008c9669c&amp;items=e57077a1-ccb9-22b5-c0c9-ff0008c9669c"><PARAM NAME="WMode" VALUE="Window"><PARAM NAME="Play" VALUE="-1"><PARAM NAME="Loop" VALUE="-1"><PARAM NAME="Quality" VALUE="High"><PARAM NAME="SAlign" VALUE=""><PARAM NAME="Menu" VALUE="-1"><PARAM NAME="Base" VALUE=""><PARAM NAME="AllowScriptAccess" VALUE="always"><PARAM NAME="Scale" VALUE="ShowAll"><PARAM NAME="DeviceFont" VALUE="0"><PARAM NAME="EmbedMovie" VALUE="0"><PARAM NAME="BGColor" VALUE=""><PARAM NAME="SWRemote" VALUE=""><PARAM NAME="MovieData" VALUE=""><PARAM NAME="SeamlessTabbing" VALUE="1"><PARAM NAME="Profile" VALUE="0"><PARAM NAME="ProfileAddress" VALUE=""><PARAM NAME="ProfilePort" VALUE="0"><PARAM NAME="AllowNetworking" VALUE="all"><PARAM NAME="AllowFullScreen" VALUE="true"><embed src="http://www.videojug.com/player?type=interview&#038;id=225dea57-5786-02f9-c00a-ff0008c9669c&#038;items=e57077a1-ccb9-22b5-c0c9-ff0008c9669c" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400" height="336" allowFullScreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always"></embed></embed></embed></embed></embed></embed></embed></embed></OBJECT><BR><A href="http://www.videojug.com/tag/general-nutrition">General Nutrition</A>: <A href="http://www.videojug.com/expertanswer/organic-food-a-healthy-alternative/are-organic-foods-a-healthier-alternative-to-other-foods">Are organic foods a healthier alternative to other foods?</A></p>
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		<title>What is &#8220;Organic&#8221; Food?</title>
		<link>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/what-is-organic-food/</link>
		<comments>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/what-is-organic-food/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 23:07:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeanne</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Diet and Nutrition]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Growth hormone]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[<H2>What is "organic" food?</H2>

<A class=zem_slink title="Organic food" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_food" rel=wikipedia>Organic food</A> is basically unadulterated food. We have an informal definition of organic food, which is kind of "natural", and we have a legal definition of organic food, certified organic. What's important in organic food is that there are no added <A class=zem_slink title=Hormone href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hormone" rel=wikipedia>hormones</A>, like bovine <A class=zem_slink title="Growth hormone" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Growth_hormone" rel=wikipedia>growth hormones</A>, which can contribute to disease, and that we don't use synthetic and <A class=zem_slink title=Fertilizer href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fertilizer" rel=wikipedia>chemical fertilizers</A>, <A class=zem_slink title=Herbicide href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herbicide" rel=wikipedia>herbicides</A>, <A class=zem_slink title=Pesticide href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pesticide" rel=wikipedia>pesticides</A>, and any other types of additives that are not natural in organic food.<BR><BR>
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><H2>What is &#8220;organic&#8221; food?</H2></p>
<p><A class=zem_slink title="Organic food" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_food" rel=wikipedia>Organic food</A> is basically unadulterated food. We have an informal definition of organic food, which is kind of &#8220;natural&#8221;, and we have a legal definition of organic food, certified organic. What&#8217;s important in organic food is that there are no added <A class=zem_slink title=Hormone href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hormone" rel=wikipedia>hormones</A>, like bovine <A class=zem_slink title="Growth hormone" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Growth_hormone" rel=wikipedia>growth hormones</A>, which can contribute to disease, and that we don&#8217;t use synthetic and <A class=zem_slink title=Fertilizer href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fertilizer" rel=wikipedia>chemical fertilizers</A>, <A class=zem_slink title=Herbicide href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herbicide" rel=wikipedia>herbicides</A>, <A class=zem_slink title=Pesticide href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pesticide" rel=wikipedia>pesticides</A>, and any other types of additives that are not natural in organic food.<BR><BR><br />
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		<title>Organic Gardening&#8230;Composting</title>
		<link>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/organic-gardening-composting/</link>
		<comments>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/organic-gardening-composting/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:41:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeanne</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Backyard Vegetable Garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Humus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nitrogen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soil and Additives]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeannecacciasilva.com/?p=1434</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<H2>Organic Gardening...Composting</H2>

Proper and consistent <A class=zem_slink title=Composting href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composting" rel=wikipedia>composting</A> will provide a natural and valuable resource for any organic gardener.

Making a compost heap: Garden style, square up to 2m square by about 2m high, this size ensures that oxygen can reach the inside of the heap while still being big enough to retain the heat needed for efficient working.

There are four factors in making a successful compost heap...

1 <STRONG>Oxygen</STRONG>: make the compost no more than 2m wide so air can pass into the centre of the heap, also the heap should not be over compressed so to prevent the access of air to the centre.

2. <STRONG>Water</STRONG>: necessary for the <A class=zem_slink title=Bacteria href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacteria" rel=wikipedia>bacteria</A> to develop and to allow the heap to heat up. When high <A class=zem_slink title=Nitrogen href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen" rel=wikipedia>nitrogen</A> is added to a heap the composting process can be so rapid that it uses up all the available water and stalls the composting process. In winter however the heap must be protected from too much water as this will push the oxygen out causing anaerobic conditions which will also stall the process. Water may have to be added to the heap in hot dry conditions.

3.<STRONG>Heat</STRONG>: this will be generated by the composting process but the design of the heap will help to retain it and kep the process going. The heap should be compacted so each layer is in contact with the next but so squashed as it removes all the air. Avoid water logging and drying out.

4. <STRONG><A class=zem_slink title="Carbon to nitrogen ratio" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_to_nitrogen_ratio" rel=wikipedia>Carbon to nitrogen ratio</A></STRONG>: The nitrogen (leafy material) speeds up the process while Carbon (wood/straw lignified material) provides the material to turn in humus and slows the process. With too much N the compost will heat up quickly then stall. With too much C the compost will be cold and slow to start.

In the case of a stalled heap it can be restarted by turning the heap adding water, lignified (woody) material, leafy material as needed to get a proper balance.

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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><H2>Organic Gardening&#8230;Composting</H2></p>
<p>Proper and consistent <A class=zem_slink title=Composting href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composting" rel=wikipedia>composting</A> will provide a natural and valuable resource for any organic gardener.</p>
<p>Making a compost heap: Garden style, square up to 2m square by about 2m high, this size ensures that oxygen can reach the inside of the heap while still being big enough to retain the heat needed for efficient working.</p>
<p>There are four factors in making a successful compost heap&#8230;</p>
<p>1 <STRONG>Oxygen</STRONG>: make the compost no more than 2m wide so air can pass into the centre of the heap, also the heap should not be over compressed so to prevent the access of air to the centre.</p>
<p>2. <STRONG>Water</STRONG>: necessary for the <A class=zem_slink title=Bacteria href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacteria" rel=wikipedia>bacteria</A> to develop and to allow the heap to heat up. When high <A class=zem_slink title=Nitrogen href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen" rel=wikipedia>nitrogen</A> is added to a heap the composting process can be so rapid that it uses up all the available water and stalls the composting process. In winter however the heap must be protected from too much water as this will push the oxygen out causing anaerobic conditions which will also stall the process. Water may have to be added to the heap in hot dry conditions.</p>
<p>3.<STRONG>Heat</STRONG>: this will be generated by the composting process but the design of the heap will help to retain it and kep the process going. The heap should be compacted so each layer is in contact with the next but so squashed as it removes all the air. Avoid water logging and drying out.</p>
<p>4. <STRONG><A class=zem_slink title="Carbon to nitrogen ratio" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_to_nitrogen_ratio" rel=wikipedia>Carbon to nitrogen ratio</A></STRONG>: The nitrogen (leafy material) speeds up the process while Carbon (wood/straw lignified material) provides the material to turn in humus and slows the process. With too much N the compost will heat up quickly then stall. With too much C the compost will be cold and slow to start.</p>
<p>In the case of a stalled heap it can be restarted by turning the heap adding water, lignified (woody) material, leafy material as needed to get a proper balance.</p>
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		<title>Organic Gardening&#8230;Crop Rotation</title>
		<link>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/organic-gardening-crop-rotation/</link>
		<comments>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/organic-gardening-crop-rotation/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Jul 2009 11:47:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeanne</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Backyard Vegetable Garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Crop rotation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic horticulture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pest control]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeannecacciasilva.com/?p=1431</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<h2>Organic Gardening...Crop Rotation</h2>

<A class=zem_slink title="Crop rotation" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_rotation" rel=wikipedia>Crop rotation</A> is an extremely important aspect of any <A class=zem_slink title="Organic horticulture" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_horticulture" rel=wikipedia>organic gardening</A> plan. Using a rotation of crops means that the same crop is not grown on a plot of land for two years running. Crops are divided into groups of related plants or crops requiring the same conditions and are rotated around pre determined plots within the growing area, so providing the opportunity to apply <A class=zem_slink title=Manure href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manure" rel=wikipedia>manures</A>, lime and <A class=zem_slink title="Pest control" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pest_control" rel=wikipedia>pest control</A> measures according to the crops requirements. For example by keeping brassicas and potatoes on separate plots allows lime to be applied to brassicas to discourage club root while avoiding lime on potatoes which may encourage scab. 

The movement of crops around the growing area limits the spread of some soil borne diseases although this is less effective on smaller plots.

The rotation can be changed according to need. A traditional rotation would be 4 or 5 years say: Alliums followed by Brassica, followed by Roots followed by Legumes. If Green Manures are used extra years will be added to the rotation.

The rotation will depend on what quantities of each crop are to be grown and whether a green manure crop is to be grown or if fertility is to be added using FYM or <A class=zem_slink title=Compost href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compost" rel=wikipedia>compost</A>.

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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><H2>Organic Gardening&#8230;Crop Rotation</H2></p>
<p><A class=zem_slink title="Crop rotation" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_rotation" rel=wikipedia>Crop rotation</A> is an extremely important aspect of any <A class=zem_slink title="Organic horticulture" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_horticulture" rel=wikipedia>organic gardening</A> plan. Using a rotation of crops means that the same crop is not grown on a plot of land for two years running. Crops are divided into groups of related plants or crops requiring the same conditions and are rotated around pre determined plots within the growing area, so providing the opportunity to apply <A class=zem_slink title=Manure href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manure" rel=wikipedia>manures</A>, lime and <A class=zem_slink title="Pest control" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pest_control" rel=wikipedia>pest control</A> measures according to the crops requirements. For example by keeping brassicas and potatoes on separate plots allows lime to be applied to brassicas to discourage club root while avoiding lime on potatoes which may encourage scab. </p>
<p>The movement of crops around the growing area limits the spread of some soil borne diseases although this is less effective on smaller plots.</p>
<p>The rotation can be changed according to need. A traditional rotation would be 4 or 5 years say: Alliums followed by Brassica, followed by Roots followed by Legumes. If Green Manures are used extra years will be added to the rotation.</p>
<p>The rotation will depend on what quantities of each crop are to be grown and whether a green manure crop is to be grown or if fertility is to be added using FYM or <A class=zem_slink title=Compost href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compost" rel=wikipedia>compost</A>.</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Organic Vegetable Gardens&#8230;Planning</title>
		<link>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/organic-vegetable-gardens-planning/</link>
		<comments>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/organic-vegetable-gardens-planning/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Jul 2009 13:10:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeanne</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Backyard Vegetable Garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Crop rotation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic matter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weed control]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeannecacciasilva.com/?p=1437</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<H2>Organic Vegetable Gardens...Planning</H2>

Organic vegetable gardens require careful planning because they exist within a natural context that needs to be evaluated and adapted to. Organic vegetable gardens also require a process of soil building to enhance plant growth which is a slow, cumulative process. In a related way, organic vegetable gardening benefits from <A class=zem_slink title="Crop rotation" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_rotation" rel=wikipedia>crop rotation</A> and fallows that need to be planned in advance and are best implemented over long time periods. 

The entire planning process can be summed-up as follows: goal setting, site analysis, site analysis, mapping and rotation planning, fertility and soil management plan, plant selection, plant <A class=zem_slink title="Plant propagation" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant_propagation" rel=wikipedia>propagation</A> plan, planting plan, pest and weed management plan, harvest plan, and post harvest plan.

<STRONG>Goal setting</STRONG> is the always the first step. What do I want from this garden? Do I want smaller year-round harvests or a single large, predictable harvest for home canning? Perhaps the gardener loves to eat tomatoes and sets a goal of planting enough tomatoes to eat four a day from July to October. By thinking this way the gardener can work backward from an identifiable position when making decisions in the following steps. As with all of these steps in the planning process, it would be helpful to record these goals in a gardening journal or notebook. 

<STRONG>Site analysis</STRONG> lets the gardener know what opportunities and constraints he/she has in regard to the garden. Factors such as sunlight exposure (intensity and duration), <A class=zem_slink title="Soil quality" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_quality" rel=wikipedia>soil quality</A>, slope and topography, plant competition, pollution, access to water, physical access to the gardening site, and others should be examined. Many resources are available on the Internet that will help such as soil surveys and aerial photographs. These results will feed-back into goal planning and may change them substantially. For instance, if you love tomatoes but your site is too shady for them, you may be better off growing lettuce instead. In this scenario you might trade with a fellow gardener whose site is too sunny for lettuce, or plan to remove some of the shading trees or structures. 

<STRONG>Fertility and soil management</STRONG> is critical step at this stage. Based on the results of the site analysis, the gardener is likely to find that the soil is lacking in one or more trait of healthy, productive soil. This deficiency may be corrected immediately, such as the addition of irrigation water for dry soils or nitrogen rich organic fertilizers in low-fertility soils. In other situations the deficiency may need to be addressed over long periods of time as in the condition of low <A class=zem_slink title="Organic matter" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_matter" rel=wikipedia>organic matter</A> content or poor <A class=zem_slink title="Soil structure" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_structure" rel=wikipedia>soil structure</A>. Either way, it is important to map out the steps required to bring the soil to its maximum productivity and plan accordingly. It is important to note here that these steps may be interconnected: soil improvement should be part of the rotation plan and vice versa. Cover cropping and green manuring should be planned as part of the soil management and rotation stage, as well.

<STRONG>Mapping and rotation planning</STRONG> allows the gardener to visualize how much room he/she has for each of his/her goals and extend the plan through time. Proper plant spacing is vitally important if each plant is going to get the soil, sun, water and nutrient resources it needs to thrive without crowding from other plants. Rotations are important because they help to break the life-cycles of pests and weeds. By drawing a map of the garden and spacing the plants appropriately, the gardener will also get a better idea of how much you will need to plant in your propagation plan (see below). 

<STRONG>Plant selection and propagation</STRONG> is another aspect of successful gardening that requires careful planning. Based on the opportunities and constraints, and the gardener’s rotation plan, plants can be selected that will thrive and best meet the goals outlined in the first step. The propagation plan will let him/her know when to plant, how many plants to produce, and how often they’ll need to be propagated. The planting plan, in concert with the plant selection and propagation plan, will help the gardener decide how planting is best accomplished. Will the plants be grown indoors and transplanted? Will they be planted in after first frost or just before the last?

<STRONG>Pest and weed management</STRONG> planning also should be done with the other steps in mind. For instance, use of rotations may be helpful in breaking weed life-cycles and reducing weeding over time. In the mean time, provision will need to be made for mechanical <A class=zem_slink title="Weed control" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weed_control" rel=wikipedia>weed control</A>. What will the gardener use: a hoe, a tractor, or a flame-weeder? Each of these options will affect the planning process in one way on anther. A good plan will make long term, positive improvements as well as anticipate and address short term needs. 

<STRONG>Harvest planning</STRONG> will tell the gardener when to expect which crops to ripen and how they will be harvested. For instance, lettuce is a fast crop that can be harvested often but not usually in the heat of summer. A weekly chart is often used to note when crops can and cannot be harvested (these are also helpful for planting times). It may also be useful for the gardener to think about harvest techniques at this stage. Returning to lettuce, we know that it should be harvested in the morning and plunged into cold water. That kind of planning can prevent wilted greens at dinner!

Finally, <STRONG>post harvest planning</STRONG> brings the process full-circle. What happens in a given area after the crop is removed? Is the site left bare, possibly encouraging weed growth? Is there another crop on the planting chart that can go in immediately following harvest? This kind of planning can keep the garden protected from pests and erosion, as well as making it more productive. If there is a long period of time when growing vegetables is not possible due to seasonal constraints, the post harvest plan can help bridge growing seasons with techniques like sowing of cover crops and use of mulches. 




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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><H2>Organic Vegetable Gardens&#8230;Planning</H2></p>
<p>Organic vegetable gardens require careful planning because they exist within a natural context that needs to be evaluated and adapted to. Organic vegetable gardens also require a process of soil building to enhance plant growth which is a slow, cumulative process. In a related way, organic vegetable gardening benefits from <A class=zem_slink title="Crop rotation" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_rotation" rel=wikipedia>crop rotation</A> and fallows that need to be planned in advance and are best implemented over long time periods. </p>
<p>The entire planning process can be summed-up as follows: goal setting, site analysis, site analysis, mapping and rotation planning, fertility and soil management plan, plant selection, plant <A class=zem_slink title="Plant propagation" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant_propagation" rel=wikipedia>propagation</A> plan, planting plan, pest and weed management plan, harvest plan, and post harvest plan.</p>
<p><STRONG>Goal setting</STRONG> is the always the first step. What do I want from this garden? Do I want smaller year-round harvests or a single large, predictable harvest for home canning? Perhaps the gardener loves to eat tomatoes and sets a goal of planting enough tomatoes to eat four a day from July to October. By thinking this way the gardener can work backward from an identifiable position when making decisions in the following steps. As with all of these steps in the planning process, it would be helpful to record these goals in a gardening journal or notebook. </p>
<p><STRONG>Site analysis</STRONG> lets the gardener know what opportunities and constraints he/she has in regard to the garden. Factors such as sunlight exposure (intensity and duration), <A class=zem_slink title="Soil quality" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_quality" rel=wikipedia>soil quality</A>, slope and topography, plant competition, pollution, access to water, physical access to the gardening site, and others should be examined. Many resources are available on the Internet that will help such as soil surveys and aerial photographs. These results will feed-back into goal planning and may change them substantially. For instance, if you love tomatoes but your site is too shady for them, you may be better off growing lettuce instead. In this scenario you might trade with a fellow gardener whose site is too sunny for lettuce, or plan to remove some of the shading trees or structures. </p>
<p><STRONG>Fertility and soil management</STRONG> is critical step at this stage. Based on the results of the site analysis, the gardener is likely to find that the soil is lacking in one or more trait of healthy, productive soil. This deficiency may be corrected immediately, such as the addition of irrigation water for dry soils or nitrogen rich organic fertilizers in low-fertility soils. In other situations the deficiency may need to be addressed over long periods of time as in the condition of low <A class=zem_slink title="Organic matter" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_matter" rel=wikipedia>organic matter</A> content or poor <A class=zem_slink title="Soil structure" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_structure" rel=wikipedia>soil structure</A>. Either way, it is important to map out the steps required to bring the soil to its maximum productivity and plan accordingly. It is important to note here that these steps may be interconnected: soil improvement should be part of the rotation plan and vice versa. Cover cropping and green manuring should be planned as part of the soil management and rotation stage, as well.</p>
<p><STRONG>Mapping and rotation planning</STRONG> allows the gardener to visualize how much room he/she has for each of his/her goals and extend the plan through time. Proper plant spacing is vitally important if each plant is going to get the soil, sun, water and nutrient resources it needs to thrive without crowding from other plants. Rotations are important because they help to break the life-cycles of pests and weeds. By drawing a map of the garden and spacing the plants appropriately, the gardener will also get a better idea of how much you will need to plant in your propagation plan (see below). </p>
<p><STRONG>Plant selection and propagation</STRONG> is another aspect of successful gardening that requires careful planning. Based on the opportunities and constraints, and the gardener’s rotation plan, plants can be selected that will thrive and best meet the goals outlined in the first step. The propagation plan will let him/her know when to plant, how many plants to produce, and how often they’ll need to be propagated. The planting plan, in concert with the plant selection and propagation plan, will help the gardener decide how planting is best accomplished. Will the plants be grown indoors and transplanted? Will they be planted in after first frost or just before the last?</p>
<p><STRONG>Pest and weed management</STRONG> planning also should be done with the other steps in mind. For instance, use of rotations may be helpful in breaking weed life-cycles and reducing weeding over time. In the mean time, provision will need to be made for mechanical <A class=zem_slink title="Weed control" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weed_control" rel=wikipedia>weed control</A>. What will the gardener use: a hoe, a tractor, or a flame-weeder? Each of these options will affect the planning process in one way on anther. A good plan will make long term, positive improvements as well as anticipate and address short term needs. </p>
<p><STRONG>Harvest planning</STRONG> will tell the gardener when to expect which crops to ripen and how they will be harvested. For instance, lettuce is a fast crop that can be harvested often but not usually in the heat of summer. A weekly chart is often used to note when crops can and cannot be harvested (these are also helpful for planting times). It may also be useful for the gardener to think about harvest techniques at this stage. Returning to lettuce, we know that it should be harvested in the morning and plunged into cold water. That kind of planning can prevent wilted greens at dinner!</p>
<p>Finally, <STRONG>post harvest planning</STRONG> brings the process full-circle. What happens in a given area after the crop is removed? Is the site left bare, possibly encouraging weed growth? Is there another crop on the planting chart that can go in immediately following harvest? This kind of planning can keep the garden protected from pests and erosion, as well as making it more productive. If there is a long period of time when growing vegetables is not possible due to seasonal constraints, the post harvest plan can help bridge growing seasons with techniques like sowing of cover crops and use of mulches. </p>
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<div id="crp_related"><h3>Related Posts:</h3><ul><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/organic-gardening-soil-testing/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Organic Gardening&#8230;Soil Testing</a></li><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/organic-gardening-crop-rotation/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Organic Gardening&#8230;Crop Rotation</a></li><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/03/happy-spring-2009/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Happy Spring 2009!</a></li><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/05/helpful-tips-on-planning-planting-and-growing-an-organic-garden/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Helpful Tips on Planning, Planting and Growing an Organic Garden</a></li><li><a href="http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2010/07/facts-about-eggplant/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Facts About Eggplant</a></li></ul></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Organic Gardening&#8230;Soil Testing</title>
		<link>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/organic-gardening-soil-testing/</link>
		<comments>http://jeannecacciasilva.com/2009/07/organic-gardening-soil-testing/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 11:44:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jeanne</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Backyard Vegetable Garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Loam]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soil Ph]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soil type]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jeannecacciasilva.com/?p=1427</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<H2>Organic Gardening...Soil Testing</H2>

<A class=zem_slink title="Soil test" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_test" rel=wikipedia>Soil testing</A> for texture and structure are 2 of the important aspects of planning an organinc garden. The hand test will tell you which of the <A class=zem_slink title="Soil type" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_type" rel=wikipedia jQuery1246205770463="227">soil types</A> you have, Sandy Loam, Medium <A class=zem_slink title=Loam href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loam" rel=wikipedia>loam</A>, Heavy Loam. Although Soil Texture cannot be easily changed, knowing the make up of your <A class=zem_slink title=Soil href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil" rel=wikipedia>soil</A> will give indications on how to make the best use of what you have with cultivations and fertility management. In general heavy soils will hold onto nutrients better but will tend to water log in wet seasons. Lighter soils will be hungry well drained and will heat up quickly in spring. Both extremes will benefit from the addition of humus

Soil nutrients:,the test for NPK will inform decisions on what methods of fertility management are required and how best to plan the rotation.

<A class=zem_slink title="Soil pH" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_pH" rel=wikipedia>pH</A> and lime Test for acidity and recommend lime use. pH has a big influence on what nutrients are made available to the plant and on other soil fauna which are part of a healthy soil. In general terms alkaline soils are better for most vegetable crops whereas acid conditions give opportunities for ornamental plants. Rate of lime application can be calculated using the pH test results.





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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><H2>Organic Gardening&#8230;Soil Testing</H2></p>
<p><A class=zem_slink title="Soil test" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_test" rel=wikipedia>Soil testing</A> for texture and structure are 2 of the important aspects of planning an organinc garden. The hand test will tell you which of the <A class=zem_slink title="Soil type" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_type" rel=wikipedia jQuery1246205770463="227">soil types</A> you have, Sandy Loam, Medium <A class=zem_slink title=Loam href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loam" rel=wikipedia>loam</A>, Heavy Loam. Although Soil Texture cannot be easily changed, knowing the make up of your <A class=zem_slink title=Soil href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil" rel=wikipedia>soil</A> will give indications on how to make the best use of what you have with cultivations and fertility management. In general heavy soils will hold onto nutrients better but will tend to water log in wet seasons. Lighter soils will be hungry well drained and will heat up quickly in spring. Both extremes will benefit from the addition of humus</p>
<p>Soil nutrients:,the test for NPK will inform decisions on what methods of fertility management are required and how best to plan the rotation.</p>
<p><A class=zem_slink title="Soil pH" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_pH" rel=wikipedia>pH</A> and lime Test for acidity and recommend lime use. pH has a big influence on what nutrients are made available to the plant and on other soil fauna which are part of a healthy soil. In general terms alkaline soils are better for most vegetable crops whereas acid conditions give opportunities for ornamental plants. Rate of lime application can be calculated using the pH test results.</p>
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