It’s All About Nutrition!

Picking (harvesting) Cantaloupe

You can tell when cantaloupes are ripe and ready to be picked when the outside skin starts to turn from green to yellow. A ripe melon easily slips off the vine where it is attached. Caution needs to be taken while harvesting and when you are working in and around melon plants so as to not step on vines. The vines will most likely have other melons attached to them that need additional time to grow and ripen. Checking the plants every 2 to 3 days for ripening melons will help ensure you reap the maximum results. It is important to refrigerate melons if you intend to store them for a few days before eating. Ripe cantaloupes do not store well for more that a week once taken off the vine and should be eaten as soon as possible.

Tags: Cantaloupe, Melons, Ripe Melon, Vines

Planting and Growing Strawberries Fact Sheet

Strawberries plants produce fruit very quickly and require a relatively small amount of space. These 2 facts alone make them a well suited for and a favorite of home gardeners. Each plant may produce up to one quart of fruit when grown in a matted row during the first fruiting year. Twenty-five plants will normally produce enough strawberries for an average sized family. Production usually declines during the second and third years of fruiting; therefore a new planting should be established after strawberry plants produce fruits for more than 3 to 4 years for maximum production.

Strawberry plants produce attractive fruit with fine flavor. Strawberries have a very high vitamin C content and are versatile as a dessert food. Most cultivars of strawberries are well suited to freezing and processing as well as for fresh use. Many people enjoy eating the fresh-picked fruit. Strawberries are also excellent for jams, jellies, and pies. Freshly sliced and sugared strawberries are excellent when served chilled either alone or over shortcake or ice cream. In addition, strawberries contain a natural substance called ellagic acid, which is an anti-carcinogenic (cancer-preventing) compound.

June-Bearing Strawberries vs. Day-Neutral Types:
Strawberry plants may be of two major types, June-bearing or day-neutral. June-bearing plants are cultured to produce a full crop the season after planting. In Ohio, the ripening season of June-bearing strawberry cultivars ranges from late May to the end of June. Day-neutral type strawberry plants differ from the standard or June-bearing types in that they produce a full crop the first season they are planted. June-bearing types are most popular for the home garden and commercial use and are well worth waiting for because of their flavor and quality. One cannot tell by looking at the plant whether they are of the day-neutral or June-bearing type; therefore, when purchasing plants, it is important to specify which type is desired. It is certainly a good idea to plant both types to get fruit production in the first year from day-neutral strawberries, and high yield and quality from June-bearing strawberries.

Strawberry Plant Selection:

Home fruit growers have a large number of cultivars (varieties) to select from. The selection is much greater for the June-bearing types than for the day-neutral types.

It is important to know the ripening season, yield, berry size, freezing quality, and dessert quality of recommended cultivars in order to select cultivars according to personal needs. In addition, selecting disease resistant cultivars will help growers reduce the risks of damage from plant diseases. Home strawberry growers are encouraged to check with Extension Agents or local commercial strawberry growers for additional information about strawberry cultivars.

Site Requirements for Strawberry Plants:
Strawberry plants require full sun for the maximum yield and the best quality. They will grow and produce crops in several different types of soil. However, best results are obtained when the plants are grown in loose, fertile soils containing large quantities of organic matter. The soil should be slightly acidic, having a pH of 5.8 to 6.5. If the extent of soil acidity or fertility is unknown, it is suggested that the soil be sampled and tested. Request special tests for organic matter and boron. Lime and fertilizers should be applied to soils according to soil test results.

The strawberry plant is sensitive to excessive soil moisture. Strawberries should be planted in raised beds or on ridges if drainage is a problem. Also, avoid planting strawberry plants in areas where potatoes, tomatoes, or sod were grown recently. Insect and disease problems may result in serious plant damage in such areas.

Planting and Spacing Strawberries:
Early spring is the best time to plant strawberry plants as long as soil is not too wet. Fall planting is not recommended because plants can be injured by soil heaving (alternate freezing and thawing). Strawberry plants have roots, a crown, and leaves. The crown is a short stem between the roots and leaves.

When planting, make sure to cover the roots and only half of the crown with soil. Make a trench deep enough to set the roots vertically. Do not bend roots horizontally.

June-bearing plants are spaced 12 to 24 inches apart. On close-spaced plants, runners are controlled by removing unwanted runners during the first season. In August, rows should be 18 to 24 inches wide with plants 6 to 8 inches apart in the row. Generally rows are 36 to 40 inches apart. A circular terrace can be used if one has limited space.

For day-neutral strawberries, plants are set 8 to 12 inches apart in the row with 30 to 36 inches between rows. Remove runners throughout the first season and remove flowers for the first 6 weeks after planting. Mulch the planting with 3 to 4 inches of straw or wood chips to conserve moisture.

Lime and Fertilizer for Strawberries:
Soil testing every two to three years is highly recommended for the best yield and quality. Apply nutrients and lime (if needed) prior to planting according to soil test results. Apply 1 ounce (10 oz. 10-10-10) of actual nitrogen broadcast per 100 square feet of plant or 0.5 ounce (5 oz. 10-10-10) banned 4 to 6 inches away from the plants 7 to 10 days after planting. Apply 1 to 1.5 ounces actual nitrogen broadcast in mid-June if rainfall has been excessive and again in mid-August. In the fruiting years, apply 1 to 1.5 ounces actual nitrogen broadcast after harvest and again in mid-August.

Strawberry Blossom Removal:
Remove the flower stalks of June-bearing strawberry plants as they appear throughout the first growing season. More production can be expected if the plants are allowed to attain large size before fruiting. Remove the blossoms of day-neutral types of plants as they appear until about the middle of June (first year only). Then allow flowers to set fruit for harvest during the remainder of the season (August through October).

Strawberry Insect and Disease Control:
Many problems due to insects and diseases in the home garden can be avoided by selecting sites where sod, tomatoes, or potatoes have not been recently grown; planting disease-free and disease-resistant planting stock; and using good cultural practices.

If you found this post interesting or helpfull leaving me a comment would be much appreciated. Thanx Jeanne

Tags: Growing Strawberries, Home Gardeners, Planting Strawberries, Strawberry Cultivars, Strawberry Plants

Planting and Growing Blueberries Fact Sheet

Blueberries are a very popular fruit in the United States because of their unique flavor, small edible seeds, and ease of preparation. Blueberries can be eaten fresh or used for jelly, jam, pies, pastries, or juice.

Blueberry fruit is also low in calories and sodium, contains no cholesterol, and is a source of fiber. A major constituent of the fiber is pectin, known for its ability to lower blood cholesterol. Blueberries contain measurable quantities of ellagic acid, which has inhibiting effects on chemically induced cancer in laboratory studies.

Blueberry juice also contains a compound that prevents bacteria from anchoring themselves to the bladder, thereby helping to prevent urinary tract infections.

Growing Blueberries:

Blueberries are a good fruit crop for home gardens because they require little space. Blueberry plants require highly acidic soil conditions for best results. Blueberry plants begin to produce fruit in the third season; however, they do not become fully productive for about six years. Once in production, it is necessary to protect the fruit from loss to birds. Climatic Requirements: Plants are generally not hardy when temperatures drop below -20 degrees F.

Requirements for Blueberry Production:

The highbush blueberry requires full sun for optimum yield and quality, and grows best where the soil is very acidic and well supplied with moisture. Soil pH should be between 4 and 4.5 and contain at least 4 to 7% organic matter.

With loam soils, it is suggested that plants be grown on raised beds, 4 feet wide and 9 inches high for better water drainage. Such beds are not needed for production on sandy soils.

Blueberry Soil Preparation:

It is very important to test soil for pH, nutrient status and organic matter content before conducting soil preparation. See GreenShare Factsheet on soil testing for more information. Your soil should be tested twice; once before soil preparation and acidification, and once after sulfur and fertilizer have been added. Further adjustments may then be necessary. Increase soil organic matter by adding grass clippings, manure or leaves (not red maple or beech) according to soil test recommendations. Incorporate the materials into the top 4 to 6 inches at least one year before planting.

Blueberry Soil Acidification:

If soil pH is above 4.5, apply granular sulfur to lower soil pH. The material should be well mixed throughout the top 4 inches of soil, three months before planting.

Planting Blueberries:

At planting, dig a hole18 inches deep and 18 inches wide and mix 1 cubic foot of peat moss with top soil until the hole is filled 4 inches from the top. Set the plant and cover the roots with the remaining peat-soil mix. Set plants 5 feet apart with rows 10 feet apart. Apply 4 inches of sawdust or wood-chip mulch in a 2 feet wide band after planting, and maintain a 4 inch depth and 4 feet band over the life of the planting.

Fertilizing Blueberries:

Fertilizers for blueberry production are best applied using soil test results as a guide. At planting, apply 1/2 to 2/3 pound of ammonium sulfate (or 10 to 16 ounces of 10-10-10) per 100 feet of row 4 weeks after planting. Keep fertilizer at least 6 inches away from plant.

In the second through twelfth years, apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of ammonium sulfate (2 to 3 pounds of 10-10-10) per 100 feet of row each year for fertility and acidity maintenance. Apply 0.5 pound of the ammonium sulfate at bloom, and the remaining 0.5 pound 4 to 6 weeks later. If plant leaves become chlorotic, apply 2 to 3 ounces of ferrous sulfate or iron chelate around the base of the plants each year.

Watering Blueberries:

Blueberry bushes have very shallow root systems and are very sensitive to water fluctuations. They need at least 1 to 2 inches of water per week. In dry seasons, supplemental watering is essential to obtain good yields of high quality products. Do not water after early September unless soil is very dry.

Pruning Blueberries:
Blueberry plants normally do not need to be pruned for the first three years. Remove blossoms that appear in the year of planting and second year after planting to stimulate vigorous growth. It is important to know the anatomy of a blueberry bush before attempting to prune blueberries. During the fourth year, the dormant plants should be pruned in mid-March. At this time, remove dead and weak branches and thin, terminal wood with small buds. Prune interior crossing branches to admit light to the center of the plant.

In subsequent years, thin out older branches to force new growth. Tall-growing branches can be headed back and thin branches removed. Flower buds of blueberry bush are produced on tips and down the second year old shoots. Blueberry bushes tend to produce smaller berries when they are overloaded with fruits, making it important not to have too many flower buds.

Mulching Blueberries:

Generous use of mulches such as sawdust or peat moss will help control weeds, conserve moisture and keep roots cool. Increased organic matter from decomposing mulch will help improve soil structure and nutrient uptake of blueberry bush. Replenish mulch as needed to keep the mulch depth at 2 to 4 inches.

Blueberry Insects and Diseases:

Some potential insect problems in blueberries include blueberry tip borer, plum curculio, cranberry fruit worm and cherry fruit worm. Disease problems include mummy berry, powdery mildew, twig blights, botrytis blossom blight, leaf spots and cane gall.


If you found this post interesting or helpfull leaving me a comment would be much appreciated. Thanx Jeanne

Tags: Blueberry Plants, Blueberry Production, Fertilizing Blueberries, Growing Blueberries, Highbush Blueberry, Mulching Blueberries, Pruning Blueberries, Watering Blueberries